To be certain of the terminology, the straight run of the tee is called the ‘run” and the 90 degree connector, in the middle, is called the ‘bull.” The draft regulator is to be inserted into the ‘bull” of a smoke tee between the heating appliance and the chimney, and usually a minimum of 18″ from the appliance. In this way you adjust the draft over the fire in the appliance. You adjust the weight to control the amount of the opening of this damper which in turn controls the amount of excess air that can enter the flue and chimney when the oil burner is operating. On oil fired equipment, the draft regulator is typically a round device with a swinging door, which will only swing one way, and with an adjustable weight on it, which will allow you to adjust it to control the draft. To be sure you understand me, the draft regulator I am referring to here is used only on oil-fired heating equipment, not on gas-fired equipment. Well, that’s when car bumpers had chrome. Yes, even water heaters! I can’t tell you how many times I have seen water heaters installed without a draft regulator installed, and a stack temperature over 900° or 1,000° F, and a draft over the fire that (as we used to say) would suck the chrome off a bumper. I really would like a digital programmable thermostat but being frugal I don't really want to spend several hundred dollars for a unit with professional installation.Draft regulators or barometric dampers are devices used to regulate the draft on oil-fired furnaces, boilers, and water heaters. Basically I think I have been a little paranoid as this is my first year burning wood and I am noticing every little change.īeGreen - in reading the manual it looks like it has to be at one particular setting based on the zone system I have, so I don't think I can change it without it effecting the zones. They also said a drafting issue in the flue would cause an oil smell to be present or the CO detector I have close by to go off (which I have not had). They said the quick cycle is probably due to the woodstove heat and drafting within the house from the ceiling fan moving air around and the cold air return vents sucking in air close by (essentially the thermostat getting a warm air blast that would tell it the room is hot enough already and cycle off quickly. I have not had to reset the furnace at all. If it couldn't correct the draft then the safety features would shut down the system and I would have to reset the furnace before it could come on again. I ended up speaking with my Oil Company and they told me that the down draft of cold air is normal (possibly a negative drafting issue) and that the furnace will automatically correct the draft with a fan and the heat coming on. I'm going to call an HVAC guy I know today and pick his brain. Maybe something is loose with the fan and is causing the air to not move enough - although it feels normal when checking the airflow at the grates in the house. I have also noticed a rateling (sp.?) sound just above the furnace burn area when the fan is on. I have been thinking it could be a nagetive draft due to the lack of makeup air in the house. The Jotul 550 insert does not have an option or area to add an OAK. I have not had to reset anything to keep the furnace working. I have also noticed that some times the draft (cold air) in the furnace flue is stronger than other times (again placing my hand in the flue damper next to the furnace - when it is off and not hot). It is just every once in a while I hear it cycle on and then shut down within a minute or less. Even without turning it up it does come on and produce heat, with the blower coming on also. I'll try to cover most suggestions: I have turned up the heat causing it to come on and heat up the house. Is this cold air a problem and could it be the cause of the furnace kicking on for short bursts? Also when the furnace does come on how can it change the draft that quickly. Also, I have noticed that there is cold air coming down the furnace flue (stick my hand through the damper swingy thing (technical word there). Issues: Sometimes I hear the furnace cycle on and then off in less than a minute, which I never heard it do in prior years, when heating only with oil. Insert is on the first floor not in the basement. I leave the hot air oil fired furnace on 62 and it will come on occasionally when the temps are in the 20's or below. chimney on the outside of the house, 6 inch SS liner with top and bottom plates (not insulated). house open floor plan and open to 2nd floor and with a full finished basement (additional 1,000 sq ft) (built 1999 pretty tight construction but not super tight) 25 ft. History: First year burning wood - Jotul 550 insert.
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